Cork, Ireland

Cork, in the south of Ireland, is the country's second city and the proud capital of its largest county — a compact, characterful river city with a big personality and a fierce local pride that earns it the nickname the 'rebel city' (and, only half-jokingly, the 'real capital'). The city centre sits on an island between two channels of the River Lee, a walkable grid of Georgian and Victorian streets, bridges, quays, churches and lively lanes. Its beating heart is the English Market, a glorious covered food market trading since 1788 — a temple to Irish produce, from artisan cheeses and fresh fish to the local specialities of buttered eggs, spiced beef and drisheen — that anchors Cork's reputation as the food capital of Ireland. Across the river to the north, the Shandon district is crowned by the church of St Anne, whose 'Shandon Bells' visitors can climb the tower to ring themselves, looking out over the city, while the elegant Gothic spires of St Fin Barre's Cathedral rise to the south. Cork is a city of culture and conviviality: home to University College Cork, a strong traditional-music and live-gig scene in its many pubs (and a fine stout rivalry between Murphy's and Beamish), galleries like the Crawford Art Gallery, and a calendar of festivals from jazz to film. But much of Cork's appeal lies in using it as a base for the spectacular surrounding county: Blarney Castle and its famous stone of eloquence are a short hop away; the colourful harbour town of Cobh, the Titanic's last port of call and a major emigration gateway, sits down the estuary; the gourmet harbour town of Kinsale marks the start of the Wild Atlantic Way; and beyond stretches the dramatic coast and villages of West Cork. The climate is mild, green and changeable, true to Ireland; late spring through early autumn brings the longest, brightest days, though Cork's pubs and markets are a pleasure year-round.